One Week Before: Call before doing any digging on your property. A phone call to will schedule a technician to come to your home and mark the property for underground utilities. To start your aboveground pool installation, place a stake in the center of the ground where you want the pool to be installed. Slip the end of the tape measure over the stake and measure to 13 ft. Measuring 13 ft from the center gives a diameter of 26 ft — so you will have 1 ft all around to work with.
Walking slowly around the perimeter, use spray paint or lime to mark the outer perimeter of the circle.
Remove all the grass and uneven top soil with flat shovels or spades, within the circle. You can rent a Sod-Cutter if you want to re-use the sod in another place; but what a beast to operate! A most important step! This can either be done with a site level, transit or line level. Set bricks flatly into the dirt on each side of the pool area, to an equally placed brick on the other side. Do this at several spots around the pool perimeter, to ensure that the surface is level.
Important: Any slope to the ground, even a centimeter of difference from side to side, will cause your water level in the pool to be uneven. Ground Leveling: Now comes the real work.
If you have a sloping location or hillside to contend with, you may need to use a skid steer loader or otherwise get some mechanical help.
If the ground is fairly flat, the work can be done with picks and shovels. A flat and square nosed shovel is a good tool, to shave off high spots. You may not need to actually remove any dirt, but get rid of weeds and rocks by raking the area with a garden rake. When leveling ground, remember: Lower high spots to meet low spots , do not fill low spots to meet high spots! Do not set your pool on loose fill dirt, it is VERY heavy when full of water.
Remove high spots, to meet the level of low spots, for even solid ground all around. The check for equal measurement from the string to the ground.
Work the area until the ground under the string is level all the way to the edge, then move the string a few feet and repeat. After the pool floor area has been leveled, bring into the middle of the pool area your floor material — whether it will be sand, stone dust or vermiculite.
Some 24 ft round pools do not necessarily measure exactly 24 ft. Set Blocks in Place: First, place a few stakes behind the assembled rail into the ground to prevent it from moving, while you continue to work. Patio blocks look like flat cinder blocks, only 1. The bottom rail must sit on solid ground all the way around, and on the patio blocks at each connection.
Proceed to level the rail going from 1 block to the next. Make sure that all blocks are equally and exactly level to each other, and the rail is firmly supported all the way around.
The pool will weigh from , lbs. Use water from a lawn sprinkler to saturate the area and help loose dirt settle into place. To Keep You Motivated. Stone dust is better than sand, as it lays flatter and resists shifting. Smooth out your base material with large trowels or wooden floats and then tamp the floor with a heavy tamper tool.
Next, use a push broom and gently sweep the pool floor, this is to remove the tamping marks and to ensure a smooth and level bottom. After tamping and smoothing, spray a light mist all over the pool bottom to solidify and firm up the floor.
If you are installing a floor pad, to protect the liner, and provide a smooth pool bottom which is resistant to heel divots and markings, now is the time to install either floor padding or liner guard. Connect Bottom Rail: The bottom rail is a track that holds the pool wall and the uprights in a locked position. The bottom rail pieces connect end to end where they meet up at each connector plate, which also serves as the base plate for the upright posts between each wall.
Once you have all of the rails locked into place, take several cross measurements, to be sure that the pool is perfectly round, or oval. You may wish to also check level again, by running strings across the pool, from base plate to base plate. You can also use a transit, or shoot a laser beam from a patio paver, across the pool to the opposite paver.
Check for level on each patio block before shooting the laser across the pool. The pool base or floor should come up to the top of each patio block that you place to support each upright.
Roll out Pool Wall: The pool wall material is a solid sheet of galvanized and laminated steel, rolled up tightly. Installing the pool wall involves unrolling it while simultaneously pushing the bottom of the wall into the bottom rail or track. You will need 2 helpers for this stage, to help stabilize the wall and hold it into the track, while you unroll the wall. Use a piece of cardboard underneath the roll, to prevent divots in the floor, and to keep from damaging the base of the wall while you move it around.
The skimmer cut-out is normally close to the beginning of the roll, so start at the place where you want the skimmer to be, which is also where your pump and filter will be located. Install Uprights, Stabilizers and Top Rail: Secure the upright by snapping it over the base plate on the outside of the wall. Position the stabilizer plate on the top of the upright, and screw into the upright. Now position the top rail on the top edge of the wall, and screw into place at the uprights.
Install Foam if Desired: Foam on the walls gives a nice soft touch and helps protect the liner. Same goes for floor padding that you can place underneath the liner. We have foam Pool Cove that is used to make a smooth and even transition between pool wall and floor, and helps protect the liner from overstretching in this area.
Install Vinyl Pool Liner: with helpers, drape the pool liner over the pool walls and clamp it in place with the coping strips. For beaded liners, attach the bead receiver to the top of the pool wall and snap the liner edge into the track. Place the pool liner box inside the pool and unfold it. If the weather is cold, keep the liner stored indoors until ready to use, to make the vinyl more pliable.
Put the seam around the bottom perimeter half way up the cove. Have someone on the outside of the pool wall start putting on your uprights side supports and install the under rail over top of the coping strips to keep the pool rigid. Using Duct-Tape, tape up around the skimmer hole and return hole and the turn on the Shop-Vac. This will pull the liner into place all around, and if any wrinkles exist you can move the liner around to loosen them, and push them towards the wall.
Once the wrinkles are removed, keep the Shop-Vac running and start filling the pool, by placing a garden hose or two into the middle of the floor. Keep the pool filling while you put on remaining top rails and top connectors.
When the water gets right below the skimmer and return holes shut it off. Installing the Face Plates: Where the skimmer hole is located, use a razor knife and make a small X in the liner, through the skimmer opening in the wall. Place one gasket behind the liner if not already taped in place.
Place a second gasket on top of the liner and line up the holes with the face plate. Use a large, 3 Phillips head, and make sure the screws are very tight, until the plastic creaks. Use a razor knife to then trim out the inside of the skimmer, saving it as vinyl patching material. Where your return hole is located, use a razor knife and make a small X in the liner, through the return fitting hole in the wall.
Install the return wall fitting with the back large nut already off and push it through the wall from inside of the pool to the outside — with the gasket already mounted. Trim away the excess vinyl wrapping the threads outside the pool, and place the gasket and nut on the outside and tighten by hand.
Only thing left to do is blow up your pool raft, install your volleyball net, add some chlorine, and enjoy your new aboveground pool — that you installed! Take a look at our new line-up of high quality above ground pools at In The Swim — with unbeatable prices and unlimited, free technical support, from me and the other SPP Pool Experts!
Also I would slope the sides and create a small swale, if possible for surface run-off. I would also put a heavy membrane, like a pond liner, between the soil and pool wall if possible. Cover that with topsoil and grass, or mulch. Robert, yes it is normal to place a small concrete paver stone beneath each upright, to guard against settling soil. Hi Davy, we are wondering if it is possible to set up an Intex 18ft x 9ft x 52 inch Xtr Ultra above ground pool on a specially constructed strong level surface made up from regularly spaced pressure treated wooden crossbeams covered by thick marine ply topped off with a layer of 2cm depth foam tiles to protect the pool lining?
Would this method work okay? I see the manual says not to put on decking. Thanks in advance for your help. Your pool will weigh nearly 44, lbs when filled with water. Hi Amy, it is most important that the pavers all be level, in relation to each other, so the pool is not tilted. For the middle of the pool, if the ground is higher, or uneven, this may result in wrinkles possibly, and can sometimes make keeping the pool clean, and cleaning the pool a little more difficult. One or two spots measure 12 ft 7 in or 12 ft 8 in across and the rest are 13 ft.
I do not want to take a wall down and move all that dirt and rock just to push it back a few inches. Everything else is ready for install. Will the space do? Hi Jana, the only issue really is that cleaning and servicing the pool can be difficult when you cannot walk around the pool completely.
This includes covering the pool for winter, if you will winterize the pool, which is very hard to do from inside the pool. If you can do it all from inside the pool, then OK, but what about if the water is only 65 degrees? And where will the pump and filter be located? And is there access to water and power? Is there any sunshine, or will the pool be completely shaded? Not a deal-breaker, but fully shaded pools can be cold-er.
I am trying to erect a round above ground pool 4. My top rails are on but the last one is 6 inches short of the post. What has gone wrong? We already had an excavator come in and remove dirt to level our ground. What would you suggest? This is great for those with children home for the summer! This article is based on my own experience and those I personally know who have successfully assembled their own backyard swimming pools. It's hard work and it may take more time than you expected, but in the end, it will be well worth it.
Before you can begin to assemble a pool, preparation is needed for the location. You must be sure it is free within 20 feet from trees and branches that may hang over the pool. It's also important to know where septic tanks, underground wiring, and water pipes are located. Another consideration is a level location, free from rocks and tree roots. The bottom of the pool liner should be resting on a soft material, such as sand. In this case, 4 to 6 tons of sand will be needed to be brought in.
Spread the sand level and tap it down before you begin to assemble the pool. Assembling a foot, above-ground pool will take a few days, depending on the amount of help that is available.
With careful planning, the job should run smoothly, without any unforeseen problems. Home Appliances. Air Conditioners. Water Heaters. Home Improvement. Interior Design. Home Furnishings. Home Decor. Lawn Care.
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